Tuscan style green braise

We made some feeble attempts at braised greens before chef Michael Sindoni, currently of  Againn, actually taught us how to do it. As  earlier noted, I’m not a recipe sort of a guy, but let’s have a go at the whole procedure anyway in the most gruesome detail which we can manage. . Start off by finding the right greens, pig and garlic. Is there a leek to be had? Grab that, too. We use chard, kale and beet greens or all three from our alottment. If homegrown isn’t available, do what Peg told me to do so many years ago: head to the farmstand and come home with a beautiful vegetable!

Greens are not hard to grow, and once started nothing seems to deter them. Excessive rain, heat or even a bit of frost? No problem.  We’ve had all those and more since late May and still they’re standing tall.  This evening, our pig took the form of bacon, cured for us by Blood Farm in Groton, MA. Sproggie herself  helped raise this porker during her tenure at The Farm School , and she fattened him up right nicely. Dried red pepper is another key ingredient.

Ours are Serranos, thanks to a good friend in Syracuse who started them off in her kitchen and sent us home with several trays of seedlings. Strung up and dried out in the attic, they last for a long time and don’t lose much “kick”. So gather together:

2lbs+ greens, see above.  Collards and mustard greens would make a fine addition and/or substitution.

2 large cloves of garlic in coarse (1/4 inch) dice

1t coarse salt

1/2 t freshly ground black pepper

3T evoo

1/4 c  coarsely chopped smoked or cured pork (bacon, pancetta, pork belly, you get the picture…)

1 dried red pepper, minced

1 leek, white section cut to 1/16 inch rounds, well washed

3/4c red wine

1/8c balsamic vinegar

Wash the greens well and remove stems.  Kale or collard stems may be hopelessly woody, and fit only for composting.   Others are keepers– use your judgement.  Cut stems into 1/2 inch sections, and tear the leaves with your hands into manageable pieces.    No need to shred them– you’re not destroying documents here.   Start the pig over low heat with evoo and cook until the fat begins to render, about five minutes.   When preparing this dish for four, we like to use an old Reverware 8qt. stockpot which is relatively tall and narrow.   Add the pepper flakes and garlic.   Swirl until fragrant.   Don’t brown the garlic, or chef S. will extend his arm out through the very monitor at which you’re staring and knock your head with a skillet.  Add the leeks, salt and pepper.   Cook until they’re soft and translucent, another 4-5 minutes, then add the stems, raise heat to medium and cook 2-3 minutes until they begin to glisten.   Now add the leafage.   The pot should be about 3/4 full at this point– it will lose at least 2/3 of this volume when done.  Bring up your heat to medium high. This is the important step, where you remove water to concentrate flavors and break down some starches  which creates a bit of sweetness to contrast with the inherently bitter greens.    Lots of steam should arise.   Stir constantly and make sure that nothing sticks to the bottom.  After another five minutes or so, everything should be thoroughly wilted.   Add the wine, cover tightly, and simmer for approximately thirty minutes, stirring occasionally.   Then add the balsamic and cook uncovered until most of the liquid is gone.

Adjust seasoning as necessary.   Though so named, some guests will no doubt be disappointed that the colorful red broth contains neither pot nor liquor, but be sure to spoon some out atop their serving.